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1
Bloom the Annatto & Soften the Onion
5 Mins
Medium heat, about 160°C (320°F)
Warm the oil in a large pot over medium heat, stir in the ground annatto and cumin, and cook for 30 seconds until the oil turns deep gold. Add the onion and garlic and cook for about 4 minutes, stirring, until the onion is soft and glassy but not browned.
Blooming the annatto in oil is what colours the whole soup; stirred into water later, it would stay pale and patchy.
Done when: Oil golden-orange, onion soft and translucent, garlic fragrant.
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2
Simmer the Potatoes
20 Mins
Gentle simmer, about 95°C (200°F)
Drain the potatoes and add them to the pot with the water and salt. Bring to a boil, skim off any foam, then lower the heat and simmer gently for about 20 minutes until the potatoes are very soft and starting to fall apart at the edges.
Keep it at a gentle simmer, not a rolling boil: hard boiling throws starchy foam over the rim and breaks the potatoes into grit instead of cream.
Done when: Potato cubes crush easily against the side of the pot with a spoon.
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3
Mash & Thicken
5 Mins
Low heat, about 85°C (185°F)
Take the pot off the heat for a moment and mash about two-thirds of the potatoes against the side of the pot with a potato masher or the back of a large spoon, leaving the rest in soft chunks. Stir well: the mashed potato is what thickens the soup, so no flour or cream is needed.
Mash in the pot, not in a blender: a blender turns potato starch gluey, while a masher keeps the soup thick but light.
Done when: Soup thick, creamy and spoon-coating, with some soft potato pieces still visible.
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4
Add the Milk & Cheese
3 Mins
Low heat, about 80°C (175°F) — do not boil
Return the pot to low heat, pour in the milk and stir in 100g of the queso fresco. Heat gently for about 3 minutes, stirring, until the cheese has melted into the soup. Taste and add salt and pepper. Take the pot off the heat as soon as it is hot through.
Never let the soup boil once the milk and cheese are in: boiling curdles the milk and turns the cheese rubbery instead of silky.
Done when: Soup hot, smooth and pale gold, cheese melted, no boiling bubbles.
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5
Serve with Avocado
2 Mins
Serve hot, about 65°C (150°F)
Cube the avocados. Ladle the soup into warm bowls and top each one with avocado cubes, the remaining crumbled queso fresco, chopped cilantro and sliced green onions.
Put the avocado on top at the table, not in the pot: warm avocado turns grey and mushy, while fresh cubes stay bright and buttery against the hot soup.
Done when: Each bowl golden and steaming, topped with green avocado, white cheese and herbs.
auto_awesome Finishing Touches & Plating
Serve at once while the soup is hot and the avocado is still cool and bright. Pass extra cheese and black pepper at the table so everyone seasons their own bowl.