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1
Soak the Rice and Lentils
10 Mins Active • Soak 4–6 Hours
Room temperature, ~24°C (75°F)
Rinse the parboiled rice and poha in several changes of water, then cover with fresh water and soak for 4-6 hours. In a separate bowl, rinse the urad dal and fenugreek seeds and soak them the same way. Start this the morning or afternoon before you plan to eat.
Keep the rice and dal in separate bowls: the dal grinds smooth while the rice stays slightly coarse, and that contrast is what makes a crisp dosa.
Done when: Rice grains that crush easily between finger and thumb; dal that has swelled to nearly double its size.
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2
Grind the Batter
10 Mins
Room temperature, ~24°C (75°F)
Drain the dal and grind it first with a little fresh water until it is pale, fluffy and completely smooth, about 4 minutes. Drain the rice and poha and grind them a little coarser, adding water a spoonful at a time until the batter falls from the spoon in a thick ribbon. Mix both batters together with 5g of the salt.
Do not make the batter watery: it should coat the back of a spoon and hold a ribbon for a second. Thin batter tears on the pan; thick batter will not spread.
Done when: A smooth, pourable batter with a fine grain, like thin pancake batter with a little body.
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3
Ferment Overnight
8–12 Hours (Hands-off)
Warm spot, ~28°C (82°F)
Cover the bowl loosely and leave the batter in a warm spot for 8-12 hours, or overnight. The wild yeasts and bacteria from the dal do the work: the batter should rise to nearly double, smell pleasantly sour like yoghurt, and show bubbles on the surface. Stir it gently once, just to mix, and add a splash of water if it is thicker than pouring cream.
Never stir the batter hard after fermenting or seal the bowl airtight: vigorous stirring knocks out the gas that makes the dosa light, and a sealed bowl can overflow as it rises.
Done when: Batter doubled in volume, bubbly on top, and smelling gently sour. If it smells sharp or vinegary, it has gone too far.
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4
Cook the Potato Masala
15 Mins
Medium heat, ~175°C (350°F)
Heat 10g of the oil in a pan over medium heat. Add the mustard seeds and wait for them to pop, then add the cumin seeds, urad dal and chana dal and fry for 30 seconds until golden. Add the curry leaves, onion, ginger and green chillies and cook for 4-5 minutes until the onion is soft. Stir in the turmeric and the remaining 4g of salt, then add the crumbled potatoes and 2-3 tablespoons of water. Cook for 5 minutes, mashing lightly as you go, until soft and holding together. Take off the heat and stir in the lemon juice and coriander.
Do not mash the potatoes to a puree: the masala should be soft with visible chunks, so it sits in the dosa instead of sliding out.
Done when: A soft, yellow, spoonable masala that holds its shape in a mound and smells of mustard, ginger and curry leaves.
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5
Spread and Crisp the Dosa
20 Mins (4 Dosas)
Medium-high heat, ~200°C (400°F)
Heat a flat cast-iron tawa or large non-stick pan over medium-high heat until a drop of water sizzles and evaporates in seconds. Wipe it very lightly with oiled kitchen paper. Pour a ladleful of batter (about 150 ml) into the centre and spiral it outwards with the back of the ladle into a thin round about 30 cm across. Drizzle about 5g of oil around the edges and cook for 2-3 minutes without touching it, until the edges lift and the surface turns golden and lacy. Do not flip it.
If the batter sticks or tears, the pan is either too cool or too oily: wipe it clean with a damp cloth, let it heat again, and try with a light hand. The first dosa is often the practice one.
Done when: Edges curling up, underside deep golden and crisp, top dry with tiny holes. It should lift cleanly with a spatula.
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6
Fill, Fold and Serve
5 Mins
Serving hot, above 60°C (140°F)
Spoon about a quarter of the warm potato masala down the centre of the dosa while it is still on the pan, fold one side over it, then fold again or roll it into a cone. Slide onto a plate and serve immediately with coconut chutney and hot sambar on the side. Repeat with the remaining batter and masala, wiping the pan and letting it reheat between dosas.
Serve each dosa the moment it leaves the pan: a dosa waits for no one, and five minutes in a pile turns crisp into soft.
Done when: A hot, crisp parcel with the yellow masala visible at the open end, ready to eat with the hands or a fork.