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1
Brown the Four Meats
15 Mins
Medium-high heat, ~190°C (375°F)
Heat the oil in a very large, heavy pot over medium-high heat. Working in batches so the pot stays hot, brown the beef, lamb, pork and chicken on all sides until deeply coloured, about 3 minutes per batch. Do not crowd the pot — meat that steams instead of browning never builds the flavour this broth needs. Lift each batch out as it browns and set it aside.
Leave the browned bits stuck to the bottom of the pot; the wine in the next step lifts them off and they are the base of the broth's colour and flavour.
Done when: Every piece is browned on the outside and still raw in the middle.
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2
Pour in the Wine and Beer
10 Mins
Simmer, ~95°C (203°F)
Return all the meat to the pot with the sliced onion and crushed garlic. Pour in the red wine and the lager, scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon to release the browned bits. Let it bubble for 2 minutes so the sharp alcohol smell softens, then add the water, half the salt, the bay leaves, the peppercorns and the oregano.
Use a wine you would happily drink — the broth keeps its character for the whole simmer.
Done when: The liquid is bubbling gently and smells of wine and onion, not raw alcohol.
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3
Simmer Until the Meats Turn Tender
75 Mins
Gentle simmer, ~95°C (203°F)
Bring the pot to a gentle simmer, then lower the heat, put the lid on slightly ajar and cook for 75 minutes. Skim off any foam that rises in the first 15 minutes — a clean broth stays clear and amber, not cloudy. Turn the meat pieces once halfway through so they cook evenly.
Keep the heat low enough that the surface barely trembles; a hard boil toughens the meat and clouds the broth.
Done when: The beef and lamb yield easily to a fork and the broth tastes rich and savoury.
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4
Add Potatoes, Tunta, Corn and Carrots
30 Mins
Gentle simmer, ~95°C (203°F)
Lift the meats out onto a plate and keep them warm. Add the potatoes, the drained tunta, the corn halves and the carrot strips to the broth, pushing the corn down so it is covered. Simmer for 30 minutes until the potatoes are tender and the tunta is soft right through. Return the meats to the pot for the last 10 minutes so they heat through in the broth.
The tunta soaks up broth as it cooks — if the pot looks dry, add a splash of hot water rather than letting the vegetables stick.
Done when: A knife slides into a potato with no resistance and the tunta is soft to the centre.
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5
Add the Peas and Season
10 Mins
Simmer, ~95°C (203°F)
Stir in the peas and the rest of the salt, then simmer for 10 minutes until the peas are bright green and tender. Fish out the bay leaves and as many peppercorns as you can find. Taste the broth and add a little more salt only if it needs it — the broth reduces as it simmers, so it gets saltier on its own. Check the chicken reaches 74°C (165°F) at its thickest part and the pork reaches 63°C (145°F), then let the pork rest for 3 minutes before serving.
Taste before adding more salt; the wine, beer and long simmer have already concentrated the seasoning.
Done when: Peas are tender and bright, the chicken is 74°C (165°F) through, and the broth is well seasoned.
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6
Rest, Then Ladle into Deep Bowls
10 Mins
Off the heat, covered
Take the pot off the heat, cover it and let it rest for 10 minutes so the meats relax and the broth settles. Ladle into deep bowls, giving each person a piece of beef, lamb, chicken and pork, a potato, a piece of tunta, half a corn cob and plenty of broth. Scatter the chopped parsley over the top and serve at once, while the broth is still steaming.
Serve the corn cob on top, as in the photo — it is the piece everyone reaches for first.
Done when: Each bowl holds all four meats, corn, potato and tunta, with the broth hot and steaming.
auto_awesome Finishing Touches & Plating
Serve picana the way Bolivian families do on Christmas Eve: in deep bowls, with the corn on top and the parsley scattered over, bread rolls on the table for mopping up the broth, and the pot kept warm in the middle of the table for second helpings.
Bolivia
2h 25m
