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1
Poach the veal gently
75 minutes
Simmer at 85°C (185°F); veal to 63°C (145°F)
Put the tied veal, water, wine, carrot, celery, onion, bay leaves, peppercorns and a pinch of salt in a large pot. Bring just to a boil, skim off any foam, then turn the heat down so the liquid barely trembles at about 85°C (185°F). Cover loosely and poach for 70–75 minutes until a thermometer in the thickest part reads at least 63°C (145°F). Lift the veal out and rest it for 10 minutes.
Never let the pot boil hard — a rolling boil tightens the meat and turns it grey and stringy.
Done when: The thermometer reads at least 63°C (145°F) in the thickest part; the meat is pale pink, firm and juicy, not grey.
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2
Chill the veal until cold and firm
4 hours (inactive)
Chill at 4°C (40°F)
Wrap the rested veal tightly in cling film, set it on a plate and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, ideally overnight. Cold veal is the whole trick: warm veal tears and crumbles under the knife.
Make the sauce while the veal chills — it also improves after a few hours in the fridge.
Done when: The veal is cold all the way through and firm to the touch, and a knife slides through it without tearing.
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3
Blend the tuna sauce
10 minutes
No cooking heat; serve chilled at 4°C (40°F)
Put the drained tuna, mayonnaise, anchovies, 30 g of the capers, lemon juice, olive oil and mustard in a blender. Blend until completely smooth and pale, then thin with 2–3 tablespoons of the strained poaching liquid until it falls from a spoon in a slow ribbon. Taste and add salt only if it needs it — the anchovies and capers are already salty.
Blend longer than you think: a grainy sauce is the most common fault. If it is too thick, add poaching liquid a spoon at a time.
Done when: The sauce is silky, pale cream-coloured and coats the back of a spoon without any visible flakes.
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4
Slice the veal paper-thin
10 minutes
Keep chilled at 4°C (40°F)
Unwrap the cold veal, remove the string and slice across the grain with a long, sharp knife into slices 2–3 mm thick. Work slowly and keep the slices overlapping on a tray as you go.
A long carving knife drawn in one smooth stroke cuts far thinner than a short knife sawing back and forth.
Done when: The slices are even, 2–3 mm thick, and hold together instead of shredding.
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5
Layer the veal and sauce it
10 minutes
Serve chilled at 4°C (40°F)
Arrange the slices overlapping in a single layer on the chilled platter, spoon the sauce over them in an even coat, then cover loosely and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes so the sauce settles into the meat.
Sauce the platter, not the slices one by one — the sauce finds its own level and every slice gets coated.
Done when: Every slice is coated, the sauce has settled, and the platter is cold to the touch.
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6
Garnish and serve
5 minutes
Serve chilled at 4°C (40°F)
Scatter the reserved whole capers and the arugula over the top, drizzle with a little more olive oil, grind black pepper over it and tuck the lemon wedges around the edge. Serve straight from the fridge with crusty bread.
Garnish at the last minute so the arugula stays perky and the capers keep their pop.
Done when: The capers are scattered, the arugula is bright green and the platter looks ready for the table.
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7
Rest, then serve
10 minutes
Serve chilled at 4°C (40°F)
Bring the platter out 10 minutes before eating so it is cool rather than ice-cold, and let guests squeeze lemon over their own portion.
Do not leave the platter out for more than 2 hours — the mayonnaise and fish sauce must stay cold.
Done when: The veal is cool, the sauce is creamy and the capers still pop with salt.
auto_awesome Finishing Touches & Plating
Let the sauced platter rest in the fridge for at least 30 minutes before serving so the sauce settles into the veal, and bring it out 10 minutes early so it is cool, not ice-cold.