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1
Make the Quick Dashi
10 Mins
Gentle simmer, about 90°C (194°F)
Put the 300 ml of water and the kombu in a small pot. Heat gently until small bubbles appear around the edge, about 5 minutes, then lift out the kombu before the water boils. Add the bonito flakes, turn off the heat and leave for 3 minutes, then strain through a fine sieve. You should have about 280 ml of clear, lightly smoky dashi.
Never boil the kombu — boiling makes the dashi bitter and slimy.
Done when: The dashi is clear, pale gold and smells gently of the sea.
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2
Mix the Mentsuyu Dipping Sauce
5 Mins
Gentle simmer, about 90°C (194°F)
Pour the dashi back into the pot and add the soy sauce, mirin, sake and sugar. Warm over low heat for 2–3 minutes, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Do not boil it. Take off the heat and chill in the fridge for at least 10 minutes, or in a bowl of ice water if you are in a hurry.
Chill the sauce properly — lukewarm mentsuyu makes the cold noodles taste flat.
Done when: The sauce tastes clearly salty first, then sweet, with a smoky depth underneath.
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3
Cook and Chill the Noodles
8 Mins
Rolling boil, 100°C (212°F)
Bring a large pot of unsalted water to a rolling boil. Add the soba and stir at once so the strands do not stick. Cook for 4–5 minutes, following the packet time, until just tender with a slight bite. Drain into a colander and rinse under cold running water, rubbing the noodles gently with your hands until the water runs clear and the noodles feel cold.
Rinsing off the starch is what gives zaru soba its clean, slippery texture — skip it and the noodles clump.
Done when: The noodles are cold, separate and springy, with no starchy film.
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4
Prepare the Toppings
5 Mins
No heat
Stir the sliced green onion and grated daikon into the chilled mentsuyu, or serve them in small dishes on the side. Put a small dab of wasabi on each plate and scatter the shredded nori and sesame seeds over the noodles.
Keep the wasabi on the side rather than in the sauce, so each person controls the heat.
Done when: Everything is cold, crisp and ready to eat.
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5
Serve and Dip
2 Mins
Serve chilled, about 10°C (50°F)
Divide the cold noodles between four plates or bamboo strainers. Give each person a small bowl of the chilled mentsuyu. To eat, pick up a small bundle of noodles with chopsticks, dip it briefly in the sauce — do not soak it — and eat at once. Refill the sauce bowls as needed.
Dip, do not drown: a quick dip seasons the noodles, a long soak makes them soggy and far too salty.
Done when: The noodles are cold and nutty, the sauce salty-sweet, and every bite is clean and refreshing.
auto_awesome Finishing Touches & Plating
Serve the noodles as soon as they are chilled — zaru soba waits for no one, and the noodles stiffen if they sit. Keep extra mentsuyu in a small jug on the table.