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1
Brown the Beef
10 Mins
Medium-high heat, about 200°C (400°F)
Heat the olive oil in a wide pan, add the beef and onion, and cook for 8 minutes, breaking the meat into small crumbles until browned. Stir in one minced garlic clove, cook 1 minute more, season with salt and pepper, then tip the beef into a bowl and let it cool for 5 minutes.
Do not crowd the pan or the beef steams instead of browning; use a wide pan and let it sizzle.
Done when: The beef is browned all over with no pink left; it must reach 71°C (160°F).
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2
Wilt and Squeeze the Spinach
5 Mins
Medium heat, about 175°C (350°F)
Wilt the spinach in the same pan with just the water clinging to its leaves, about 2 minutes, then tip it into a colander. When it is cool enough to handle, squeeze it in handfuls until it is a tight, dry ball, then chop it finely.
A clean tea towel wrings out far more water than bare hands.
Done when: The spinach is dark, compact and dry to the touch.
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3
Mix the Filling
5 Mins
No heat
Fold the cooled beef, chopped spinach, ricotta, beaten egg, half the Parmesan and the nutmeg together until evenly mixed. Taste and add salt and pepper; the filling should be well seasoned, since the pasta itself is plain.
Mix gently with a fork; overworking makes the filling dense and rubbery.
Done when: A thick, spoonable mixture that holds its shape on a spoon.
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4
Fill the Tubes and Assemble
15 Mins
Oven preheating to 190°C (375°F)
Spread half the passata over the base of a baking dish. Fill each tube with the mixture, using a small spoon or a piping bag, and lay them in a single layer, snugly side by side. Spoon the remaining passata over the top so every tube is covered, scatter the mozzarella, the rest of the Parmesan and the pine nuts.
Cover every bit of exposed pasta with sauce; uncovered tube ends dry out and turn hard in the oven.
Done when: All tubes are filled, in one layer, with no dry pasta showing.
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5
Bake Until Golden and Bubbling
35 Mins
190°C (375°F)
Cover the dish loosely with foil and bake for 25 minutes, then remove the foil and bake for 10 minutes more until the cheese is golden and the sauce bubbles at the edges. Rest for 10 minutes before serving so the tubes set and the filling stays inside when you lift them out.
The foil traps steam so the tubes cook through; the uncovered finish is what gives the golden top.
Done when: The top is golden and bubbling, and a knife slides through a tube with no resistance.
auto_awesome Finishing Touches & Plating
Rest the dish for 10 minutes, then serve two or three tubes per person with a spoonful of the sauce from the dish and a scattering of fresh basil if you have it.