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1
Roast the Eggplants
30 Mins
220°C (425°F)
Heat the oven to 220°C (425°F). Prick the eggplants all over with a fork and roast them on a tray for about 30 minutes, turning once, until the skins are blackened and the flesh collapses when pressed. Leave them to cool for 10 minutes, then split the skins and scoop out the soft flesh into a bowl with the lemon juice, mashing out any large lumps.
Blackened skin is the goal, not a mistake — that is where the smoke comes from.
Done when: Skins are blackened and wrinkled; the flesh is completely soft.
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2
Brown the Lamb
10 Mins
Medium-high heat, about 190°C (375°F)
Heat the olive oil in a heavy pot and brown the lamb cubes in batches, about 3 minutes a side, until deeply coloured all over. Season with salt and pepper as you go. Lift the lamb out and set it aside — leave the browned bits in the pot, they are flavour.
Brown in batches: crowded lamb steams instead of browning.
Done when: Lamb cubes are dark brown on the outside, still pink inside.
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3
Build the Tomato Sauce
10 Mins
Medium heat, about 170°C (340°F)
Soften the onion in the same pot for 5 minutes, then add the garlic and pepper and cook for 2 minutes more. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 1 minute until it darkens, then add the grated tomatoes and a splash of water, scraping the bottom of the pot to lift the browned bits into the sauce.
Cooking the tomato paste until it darkens takes away its raw, tinny taste.
Done when: The sauce is thick, dark red and smells sweet and savoury.
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4
Braise Until Tender
60 Mins
Gentle simmer, about 95°C (200°F)
Return the lamb to the pot, add enough water to just cover, and bring it to the barest simmer. Cover and cook for about 60 minutes, stirring now and then, until the lamb is so tender it falls apart when pressed with a spoon and the sauce has thickened around it.
A bare simmer is essential — a rolling boil toughens braised lamb.
Done when: Lamb yields to a spoon with no resistance; the sauce coats it thickly.
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5
Make the Eggplant Purée
15 Mins
Medium heat, about 160°C (320°F)
Melt the butter in a pan, stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute, then pour in the warm milk a little at a time, whisking until you have a smooth, thick béchamel. Fold in the mashed eggplant and the grated cheese, and stir over low heat until the cheese melts and the purée is silky and smooth. Season lightly.
Warm milk is the secret to a lump-free béchamel — cold milk seizes the flour.
Done when: The purée is smooth, glossy and holds a soft peak on the spoon.
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6
Plate and Serve
5 Mins
Serve hot, about 70°C (160°F)
Spoon the hot purée onto warmed plates and make a well in the centre of each. Ladle the lamb and its sauce into the well, and serve at once with warm pide bread and a grilled green pepper on the side.
Warm the plates first — the purée cools fast on a cold plate.
Done when: Purée is hot and silky, lamb is steaming in its sauce on top.
auto_awesome Finishing Touches & Plating
Spoon the hot purée onto warmed plates, make a well in the centre, ladle the lamb and its sauce over the top, and serve at once with warm bread for scooping.