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1
Simmer the Catfish
25 Mins • Simmering
Gentle simmer, about 95°C (200°F); fish cooked through to at least 63°C (145°F)
Put the catfish fillets in a large pot with 2 litres of cold water, the bruised lemongrass stalk, the halved onion and the shrimp paste. Bring to a gentle simmer — never a hard boil — and cook for about 20 minutes, skimming any foam, until the fish flakes easily. Lift the fish out onto a plate and flake it into large pieces, discarding any bones. Strain the broth through a fine sieve back into the pot and keep it at a low simmer.
A hard boil clouds the broth and toughens the fish; a few lazy bubbles is right.
Done when: Fish flakes easily with a fork; broth clear, pale gold and fragrant.
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2
Pound the Aromatic Paste
10 Mins • Pounding
Room temperature, about 20°C (68°F)
Pound the chopped shallots, garlic, ginger and finely sliced lemongrass in a mortar — or blitz in a small food processor — with the turmeric and a pinch of salt, until you have a rough, fragrant paste. It does not need to be smooth; a little texture is traditional.
Pound the lemongrass first, as it is the toughest, then add the softer shallots and garlic.
Done when: A coarse, golden, strongly fragrant paste.
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3
Build and Thicken the Broth
20 Mins • Simmering
Gentle simmer, about 95°C (200°F)
Stir the aromatic paste into the strained broth and simmer for 5 minutes. Whisk the toasted chickpea and rice flours with 120 ml (1/2 cup) of cold water until smooth, then pour the slurry into the pot in a thin stream, whisking all the time. Add the flaked fish and the banana stem, then simmer for 10–12 minutes, stirring often, until the broth thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon. Season with the fish sauce and salt, tasting as you go.
Whisk the flours with cold water first — adding dry flour straight to the pot makes lumps that never come out.
Done when: Broth thick, silky and golden, coating a spoon; fish flakes and banana stem spread through it.
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4
Cook the Noodles and Eggs
10 Mins • Boiling
Rolling boil, 100°C (212°F)
Boil the eggs for 10 minutes, cool in cold water, peel and halve them. In a separate large pot of boiling water, cook the rice vermicelli according to the packet — usually 3–4 minutes — until just tender, then drain and rinse briefly under cold water so the strands stay separate.
Cook the noodles separately, never in the broth — they would soak up the soup and turn it starchy and thin.
Done when: Eggs firm and halved cleanly; noodles tender but still springy.
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5
Fry the Shallots
5 Mins • Frying
Medium heat, about 175°C (350°F)
Heat the oil in a small pan and fry the thinly sliced shallots, stirring, for 3–4 minutes until crisp and golden brown. Lift them out with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. They will crisp further as they cool.
Watch them closely in the last minute — shallots go from golden to burnt in seconds.
Done when: Crisp, golden-brown shallot curls.
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6
Build the Bowls
5 Mins • Assembling
Serving hot, above 60°C (140°F)
Divide the warm noodles between six deep bowls. Ladle the hot, thick fish broth over each one, making sure every bowl gets flaked fish and banana stem. Top with half a boiled egg, a pinch of fried shallots, cilantro and green onions, and serve at once with lime wedges and chilli flakes on the table so each person seasons their own bowl.
Ladle the broth last and serve immediately — the noodles keep soaking it up and will soften if the bowl waits.
Done when: A steaming bowl with noodles visible under golden broth, egg, herbs and crisp shallots on top.
auto_awesome Finishing Touches & Plating
Hand each bowl with lime wedges and chilli flakes on the side, and let everyone squeeze and sprinkle to taste. Street stalls often add a crisp split pea fritter (pe kyaw) on top — if you have them, add one per bowl for crunch.
Myanmar
50m
Vietnam
France