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1
Brown the Lamb in Batches
15 Mins
Very high heat, ~220°C (425°F)
Heat the oil in a large heavy pot or kazan over very high heat until it shimmers. Deep-fry the lamb in 3–4 batches for 3–4 minutes per batch, turning once, until golden-brown on all sides. Lift each batch out with a slotted spoon and set aside.
Do not crowd the pot — the meat must fry, not steam. Working in batches is the difference between golden lamb and grey, boiled lamb.
Done when: Lamb is deep golden-brown on the outside; the oil is hot and clear.
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2
Fry the Onions, Then Build the Zirvak
20 Mins
Medium-high heat, ~190°C (375°F)
Lower the heat slightly and fry the sliced onions in the same oil until golden brown, about 5 minutes, stirring so they do not burn. Return the lamb to the pot, stir in the cumin, coriander, salt and pepper, then add the carrot sticks and cook, stirring from time to time, for 15–20 minutes until the carrots begin to wilt and brown a little at the edges.
The onion, carrot and meat base is the zirvak — its flavour carries the whole dish, so let the carrots soften properly before any water goes in.
Done when: Onions are golden, carrots are wilted and lightly browned at the edges.
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3
Simmer the Zirvak Until Tender
30 Mins
Medium heat, ~160°C (320°F), then a gentle simmer
Lower the heat to medium and pour in just enough hot water to cover the meat and vegetables. Simmer gently, without stirring, until nearly all the water has evaporated and the lamb is tender and juicy, about 30 minutes. Taste and add a little more salt if needed — the base should taste slightly over-salted at this stage, as the rice will absorb it.
Do not stir during this simmer. The lamb must reach at least 63°C (145°F) all the way through; simmering it in the zirvak takes it well past that.
Done when: Lamb is tender when pressed with a spoon; most of the water has cooked away.
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4
Layer the Rice and Garlic — Do Not Stir
10 Mins
Highest heat, ~230°C (450°F)
Turn the heat to the highest setting. Drain the soaked rice well and spread it in one even layer over the meat and vegetables — do not mix it in. Push the whole head of garlic down into the centre of the rice. Place a spoon or ladle flat on the rice and carefully pour boiling water over it so the layer is not washed away, until the water sits about 2 cm above the rice. Season the water with a little more salt.
Pouring over a spoon keeps the rice layer intact. From this point on, do not stir the rice — stirring is what turns plov into porridge.
Done when: Rice sits in a flat, even layer with the garlic buried in the middle and water just covering it.
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5
Boil, Then Steam Until Fluffy
35 Mins
High heat to boil, then lowest heat to steam, ~100°C (212°F)
Let the water boil rapidly. When it has dropped to the level of the rice, poke several holes through the rice to the bottom of the pot with a chopstick to check the water level and let steam escape. When the water is absorbed and the rice is still slightly al dente, reduce the heat to the absolute minimum, cover the pot tightly with its lid and steam for 20 minutes. Turn the heat off and leave the pot covered for 5 minutes more.
A tight lid matters — wrap it in a clean tea towel if it does not seal well, so the steam stays in and the grains finish fluffy.
Done when: Rice is tender and separate, with no water left at the bottom; the garlic is soft and mellow when squeezed.
auto_awesome Finishing Touches & Plating
Lift out the garlic head and set it on a separate plate. Carefully mix the rice with the lamb and carrots, taste and add a pinch more salt if the rice is bland, then let it stand for 5 minutes. This turkmen plov is best served hot, piled onto a big warmed plate with the soft garlic on top, and with a thinly sliced tomato, sweet onion and chilli salad alongside.
Turkmenistan
55m
France
Vietnam