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1
Marinate the Chicken
30 Mins
Fridge, 4°C (39°F)
Mix the chicken pieces with the yogurt, raw onion, ginger, garlic, tomatoes, lemon juice, cumin, coriander, red chilli powder, turmeric, garam masala, black pepper, salt and the 2 slit green chillies. Cover and leave in the fridge for at least 30 minutes, or overnight for the deepest flavour.
Overnight marinating makes a real difference — the yogurt tenderises the chicken and the spices sink right in.
Done when: Chicken is evenly coated in a thick, spiced yogurt marinade.
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2
Fry the Birista & Parboil the Rice
15 Mins
Frying oil ~180°C (350°F); rice water rolling boil, 100°C (212°F)
Heat the oil in a wide pan to about 180°C (350°F) and fry the sliced onions in batches, stirring often, until deep golden and crisp. Lift them out with a slotted spoon and drain on paper. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water with the cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and bay leaves to a rolling boil, add the drained rice and boil for 5–6 minutes until the grains are soft on the outside but still firm and chalky in the middle. Drain — do not rinse.
Bite a grain: it should bend without snapping and still have a white, firm centre. Overcooked rice turns to mush in the pot.
Done when: Onions are crisp and deep golden (birista); rice is parboiled — tender outside, firm and white inside.
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3
Layer Rice, Chicken, Saffron & Birista
10 Mins
Room temperature
Take the marinated chicken out of the fridge and spread it in an even layer at the bottom of a heavy, wide pot (a handi or Dutch oven). Spoon half the parboiled rice over the chicken and spread it gently. Scatter half the crisp fried onions, half the mint and coriander and the fried cashews, place the 2 whole green chillies on top, then spoon over the rest of the rice and mound it into a low dome. Drizzle over the saffron milk and the melted ghee, and scatter the remaining fried onions and herbs on top.
Mound the rice high in the middle — the dome lets steam circulate and keeps the top layer from drying out.
Done when: Layers are built with saffron milk and ghee drizzled over the dome.
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4
Seal the Pot & Cook on Dum
50 Mins
Lowest heat, ~120°C (250°F)
Mix flour and water into a soft dough and press it around the rim of the pot, then press the lid down onto it so the pot is completely sealed. Cook on medium heat for 10 minutes to build up steam, then turn the heat to the lowest setting and cook for 40 minutes. Do not lift the lid.
If you have no dough, wrap the lid tightly in foil and weigh it down — the seal is what makes dum work.
Done when: Pot is sealed with dough; steam is trapped inside for the whole cook.
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5
Rest, Break the Seal & Serve
10 Mins
Off the heat
Take the pot off the heat and rest it, still sealed, for 10 minutes. Break the dough seal, lift the lid and check that the chicken is cooked through and reaches at least 74°C (165°F) at the thickest part. Gently lift the biryani out in layers onto a large platter so everyone gets rice, chicken and saffron, and top with the remaining fried onions.
Lift from the bottom in layers instead of stirring — stirring breaks the rice and mixes the layers into a mush.
Done when: Chicken is cooked through to 74°C (165°F) and spoon-tender; rice is fluffy, separate and saffron-streaked.
auto_awesome Finishing Touches & Plating
Rest the sealed pot off the heat for 10 minutes, then break the dough seal and lift the biryani out in layers so everyone gets rice, chicken and saffron. Serve hot with raita and mirchi ka salan on the side — and let the saffron steam do the talking.