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1
Make the Three Fruit Purees
10 Mins
Room temperature
Peel the guavas, halve them and scoop out the seeds, then mash or blend the flesh until smooth — you need 200 g of pulp. Blend the blackberries briefly and push them through a sieve for 150 g of pulp, setting 30 g aside in a small jug for drizzling. Halve the passion fruits, scoop out the pulp and strain it for 100 g. Stir the three purees together with 50 g of the sugar until the sugar dissolves.
Strain the blackberry and passion fruit well — seeds in the foam spoil the smooth texture.
Done when: Three smooth, seedless purees, deep pink, purple and gold, with the sugar dissolved.
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2
Cook the Sugar Syrup
10 Mins
115°C (240°F)
Put the remaining 150 g of sugar and the 80 ml of water in a small pan over medium heat. Stir once to dissolve, then stop stirring and boil until a sugar thermometer reads 115°C (240°F) — the soft-ball stage, about 8 minutes. Take the pan off the heat at once.
Do not stir once it boils, or the syrup can crystallise; swirl the pan instead.
Done when: A clear syrup at 115°C (240°F) that forms a soft ball when a drop is rolled between wet fingers.
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3
Whip the Egg Whites
5 Mins
Room temperature
While the syrup cooks, whip the egg whites with the cream of tartar and the pinch of salt on medium-high speed until they hold soft peaks — the peaks flop over when you lift the whisk.
The bowl must be spotlessly clean and dry — a trace of fat or yolk stops the whites whipping.
Done when: Glossy soft peaks that flop at the tip.
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4
Pour in the Hot Syrup
5 Mins
Syrup at 115°C (240°F)
With the mixer running on high, pour the hot syrup into the whites in a slow, thin stream, aiming between the whisk and the side of the bowl. Keep whipping for about 4 minutes until the meringue is thick, glossy and cool enough to hold stiff peaks.
Pour slowly — a fast pour cooks the whites into lumps instead of a smooth foam.
Done when: A thick, glossy meringue that stands in stiff peaks and barely feels warm to the touch.
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5
Fold in the Fruit Puree
3 Mins
Room temperature
Spoon the mixed fruit puree over the meringue and fold it in with a large spatula, turning the bowl as you go, until the colours marble together — pink, purple and gold — and no white streaks remain. Stop as soon as it is mixed.
Fold, do not stir — stirring knocks the air out and the foam goes flat.
Done when: A light, marbled foam, thick enough to hold its shape on a spoon.
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6
Fill the Cones and Serve
2 Mins
Serving temperature, about 10°C (50°F)
Spoon the espumilla generously into the wafer cones, piling it high. Drizzle each one with a little of the reserved blackberry puree and top with strawberry slices. Serve at once.
Fill the cones at the last minute — the foam starts to soften after about an hour.
Done when: Tall, colourful cones, the foam holding its shape, with strawberries on top.
auto_awesome Finishing Touches & Plating
Serve the espumilla at once, while the foam is tall and the cones are still crisp. It is a street sweet made to be eaten on the spot — do not leave it standing.
Ecuador
30m
