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1
Butterfly and Score the Carp
10 Mins
Room temperature
Lay the cleaned carp belly down and open it flat along the back cut, pressing gently so the whole fish lies in one piece. Score the flesh with shallow diagonal cuts about 2 cm apart on the thickest parts. Rub the salt into the flesh and the skin, then leave the fish for 10 minutes so the salt draws out surface moisture.
A fish that lies flat cooks evenly; if it curls, the edges burn while the middle stays raw.
Done when: Fish lies flat, flesh is scored, and the surface looks lightly salted and dry.
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2
Make and Apply the Marinade
10 Mins
Room temperature
Stir the olive oil, tamarind paste, tomato paste, crushed garlic, lemon juice, cumin, turmeric and paprika into a smooth, thick paste. Rub it all over the flesh side of the carp, working it into the scores, and leave the fish to marinate for 20 minutes. Do not marinade much longer — the tamarind and lemon will start to soften the flesh too much.
Keep most of the marinade on the flesh side; the skin side needs only a light brush of oil so it crisps instead of sticking.
Done when: Flesh is evenly coated, rust-red from the paste, and smells of tamarind and garlic.
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3
Set Up the Fire or Grill
10 Mins
Medium-high heat, about 200°C (400°F)
Build a wood or charcoal fire and let it burn down to glowing embers with no tall flames, or heat a barbecue or oven grill to about 200°C (400°F). In Baghdad the fish is staked upright beside the fire; at home, oil a large grill basket or a wire rack well and lay the fish skin side down, flesh side toward the heat.
Embers, not flames, are the secret — flames scorch the skin before the thick flesh cooks through.
Done when: Heat is steady and strong enough that you can only hold your hand above it for 2–3 seconds.
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4
Grill the Carp
35 Mins
About 200°C (400°F); fish to 63°C (145°F) inside
Grill the fish flesh side toward the heat for 20 minutes, then turn it and grill skin side down for 15 minutes more, until the skin is crisp and golden and the flesh flakes easily with a fork. The thickest part of the flesh must reach at least 63°C (145°F) — check with a thermometer or by looking for opaque, flaking flesh with no translucency left.
Turn the fish only once. Every extra turn risks breaking the flesh and losing the crisp skin.
Done when: Skin is crisp and deep golden, flesh flakes cleanly, and the centre reaches 63°C (145°F).
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5
Grill the Tomatoes and Onion
15 Mins
About 200°C (400°F)
While the fish finishes, grill the halved tomatoes cut side down and the onion rings until they are soft, charred at the edges and sweet. This takes about 10–15 minutes beside the fish. Keep them warm on the edge of the grill.
Grill the tomatoes cut side down first — the flat side takes the char and the tomato keeps its shape.
Done when: Tomatoes are soft and blistered at the edges; onion rings are tender and lightly charred.
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6
Rest and Serve
10 Mins
Off the heat
Lift the fish onto a large tray, cover it loosely with a piece of flatbread or foil, and rest it for 10 minutes so the juices settle. Serve the whole fish on the tray with the grilled tomatoes and onion rings, lemon wedges and pickles around it, and warm flatbread on the side for tearing and scooping.
Resting matters: cutting into the fish straight off the fire lets the juices run out and the flesh dries.
Done when: Fish is rested, the tray is warm, and the flesh is moist and smoky when flaked.
auto_awesome Finishing Touches & Plating
Serve the masgouf whole on its tray, the crisp skin on top, with grilled tomatoes, onion rings, lemon wedges and warm flatbread. Each person flakes the flesh off the bones with a fork and scoops it up with bread.
Iraq
2h 30m
France
Vietnam