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1
Simmer the Prawn Stock
25 Mins
Gentle simmer, about 95°C (203°F)
Put the prawn heads and shells in a pot with 1.2 litres of water and bring to a boil, skimming off any foam. Lower the heat, add the whole piece of pork belly, and simmer gently for 20 minutes until the stock turns a pale orange-pink and smells richly of prawn. Lift out the pork belly, cool it slightly and slice it thinly. Strain the stock through a fine sieve and keep about 900 ml — this prawn stock is what makes the Singapore version wet and savoury, not dark soy sauce.
Press the prawn heads with the back of a ladle as they simmer to squeeze out every bit of flavour, then strain well so no shell shards reach the noodles.
Done when: Stock is pale orange-pink, fragrant and slightly reduced; pork belly is cooked through and slices cleanly.
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2
Render the Lard
8 Mins
Medium heat, about 160°C (320°F)
While the stock simmers, put the diced pork lard in a dry pan over medium heat and cook, stirring now and then, until the cubes shrink, turn golden and crisp and the fat has run out. Lift the crisp pieces out with a slotted spoon and drain on paper; keep the rendered fat in the pan for the wok. You should have about 15 g of crisp golden pieces for scattering over the finished plates.
Do not rush the lard on high heat — it burns before it crisps. Medium heat and patience give golden pieces, not bitter ones.
Done when: Lard pieces are deep golden, shrunken and crunchy; the fat in the pan is clear.
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3
Fry the Garlic and Egg
3 Mins
High heat, about 200°C (400°F)
Heat the vegetable oil plus 1 tablespoon of the rendered lard in a large wok over high heat until it shimmers. Add the minced garlic and fry for 20 seconds until fragrant, then pour in the beaten eggs and let them set for a few seconds before breaking them into ribbons with the spatula.
Let the egg sit untouched for a few seconds so it sets into soft sheets, then break it up — stirring at once gives tiny dry crumbs instead of silky ribbons.
Done when: Egg is just set in soft golden ribbons; garlic is fragrant, not brown.
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4
Fry the Noodles and Seafood
4 Mins
High heat, about 200°C (400°F)
Add the loosened yellow noodles, the drained vermicelli, the sliced pork belly and the squid to the wok. Toss hard for 2 minutes so the noodles pick up the egg and garlic, then add the prawns and toss for 1 more minute. The prawns and squid should be just turning opaque — they finish cooking in the stock in the next step.
Keep the wok as hot as you can and toss constantly; a crowded, lukewarm wok steams the noodles instead of frying them.
Done when: Prawns are pink at the edges, squid rings are just opaque, noodles are coated and glossy.
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5
Flood with Prawn Stock and Braise Wet
6 Mins
High heat, then a simmer at about 100°C (212°F)
Pour in 500 ml of the hot prawn stock with the fish sauce, soy sauce, sugar and white pepper, and toss to coat. Cover the wok with a lid and let the noodles braise for 3 minutes, lifting the lid once to toss, so the noodles drink up the stock. This is the step that defines the Singapore dish: the noodles are braised in prawn stock until they are wet and saucy, never fried dry in dark soy sauce like the Kuala Lumpur version. Add splashes of the remaining stock if the pan dries out — the finished noodles should sit in a shallow pool of stock.
Do not let the wok go dry. If the noodles start to stick, add stock, not oil — the stock is the flavour.
Done when: Noodles are tender and glossy, sitting in a shallow pool of prawn stock; prawns are fully pink and curled, squid is tender.
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6
Fold in Sprouts and Chives, Rest and Serve
3 Mins
Off the heat, then serve at about 70°C (158°F)
Uncover, scatter in the bean sprouts and garlic chives, and toss for 1 minute until the sprouts are just wilted but still crisp. Taste and add the salt if the stock needs it. Take the wok off the heat, cover and rest for 1 minute so the noodles absorb the last of the stock. Divide between 4 plates, scatter over the crisp lard pieces and fried shallots, and serve at once with a halved calamansi and a spoon of sambal belacan on the side of each plate.
Squeeze the calamansi over the noodles and stir in a little sambal at the table — the sour heat against the rich prawn stock is the whole point of the dish.
Done when: Sprouts are bright and crisp, chives are wilted, noodles are wet and steaming, seafood is cooked through (prawns to 63°C / 145°F).
Singapore
1h 30m
