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1
Pound the Shrimp Paste
10 Mins
Room temperature, about 20°C (68°F)
Pound the 500 g shrimp in a mortar, or blitz in short pulses in a food processor, until smooth. Add the 80 g pork, 10 g garlic, 20 g spring onion whites, 10 g sugar, 15 g fish sauce, 2 g salt, 1 g white pepper, 10 g cornstarch and 5 g sesame oil, and pound or pulse again until the paste is sticky and springs back when pressed. Chill for 15 minutes.
Stop while it is still slightly coarse — over-blitzed paste turns rubbery.
Done when: A smooth, sticky paste that holds its shape and springs back when pressed.
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2
Mould onto the Sugarcane
5 Mins
Room temperature, about 20°C (68°F)
Wet your hands, take a ball of paste about the size of a small egg, and press it around the top two-thirds of a sugarcane stick, shaping it into a smooth oval about 8 cm long. Repeat for all 8 sticks. The paste should be about 1.5 cm thick so it grills through evenly.
Wet hands stop the paste sticking to your fingers instead of the cane.
Done when: Eight smooth, even ovals of paste on the cane, no thin spots.
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3
Grill Until Golden
10 Mins
Medium heat, about 180°C (350°F)
Grill the sticks over medium heat — a barbecue, a grill pan or the oven grill — turning every 2–3 minutes, for 8–10 minutes until the paste is golden brown outside and opaque white all the way through. Shrimp is safe at 63°C (145°F); the paste should feel firm and springy, not soft.
Medium heat, not high — the sugar in the paste burns fast on fierce heat.
Done when: Golden-brown outside, white and firm inside, smelling sweet and smoky.
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4
Cook the Vermicelli and Make the Toppings
5 Mins
Boiling water, 100°C (212°F)
While the sticks grill, cook the 200 g vermicelli per the packet, drain and divide between four bowls. Heat the 15 g vegetable oil until shimmering and pour it over the 40 g sliced spring onions to make scallion oil. Have the pickles, 30 g crushed peanuts and nuoc cham ready.
Rinse the cooked vermicelli in cold water so it does not clump.
Done when: Loose, cool vermicelli; sizzling scallion oil; pickles and sauce within reach.
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5
Serve Over Vermicelli
5 Mins
Serving temperature, about 60°C (140°F)
Lay two grilled sticks on each bowl of vermicelli, spoon over the scallion oil, scatter the pickles and crushed peanuts, and put the nuoc cham on the side for dipping and pouring. Eat by sliding the shrimp paste off the cane with chopsticks — the cane itself is not eaten.
Serve at once while the sticks are hot and the vermicelli is cool — the contrast is the point.
Done when: Hot golden sticks on cool noodles, peanuts and scallion oil on top, nuoc cham on the side.
auto_awesome Finishing Touches & Plating
Serve the sticks hot over the cool vermicelli with the nuoc cham on the side, and slide the shrimp paste off the cane with chopsticks — the cane is a handle and a perfume, not food.